
Grant Achatz's restaurant is in my view the most important restaurant in America. Unlike the other mad scientist gastronomes prowling the edges of the culinary forest, Achatz blends a reverence for classic technique with a brilliance for food forward cookery that is without peer in the States. On my last visit there one of my dishes was a seared breast and braised leg of squab served in a deep bowl, keystoned around a seared slice of foie gras in a foie gras and morel infused cream sauce with seared morels bobbing along in the mud brown sea at the bottom of the bowl. No suprises, no gimmicks, just pure and simple brilliance, and the most memorable dish of the 22 I tasted that day, both for it's taste and for it's silhouette against the backdrop of the 21 other dishes that were all about innovation to the power of 10.
Comments (2)
I have also eaten at Alinea, and have never had an experience anywhere like it. And I never expect to. I was particularly delighted by the aromas - the nutmeg pillow, the bowl of steaming camomille flowers...
This review was right on!